Croatia and Montenegro
Saturday
Hello Dubrovnik, it’s good to be back. Back to the Dubrovnik Palace for a week of relaxation. Too early for check in so time for our first Ozujsko in the Sunset Lounge with a view of the beautiful Elafiti Islands.
Walk into Lapad for lunch by the water then time to check in and get some sleep after a 3.45am start.
Feeling refreshed so head out for pre-dinner drinks at Culto one of a row of modern bars filled with locals as off the tourist trail. A couple of extra strength Mojitos and time for dinner at Teatar. No frills food but good local fish and a bottle of Posip Cara.
Post dinner drinks at Promenada then time for sleep after a long day.
Sunday
Big sleep and then out in the sunshine for a walk around Lapad and Babin Kuk. Stop off at Beach bar Lapad for strong espresso and people watching.
Take the coastal path round to Babin Kuk which is more of a resort area. Stop at restaurant Zoe for lunch which once again has stunning views.
Work our way towards the new Port of Gruz and find a sign for beach bar Cava and make our way down the stone steps to a makeshift bar by the water. Time for another cold Ozujsko and respite from walking in the sunshine.
Continue our walk and end up by Yacht Club Orsan which we have never seen before. Amazing smell from the charcoal grill so stop for a drink and decide we will come back for dinner. Beautiful tranquil stop.
End up at Orka bar where we have been before and watch the boats come and go in the harbour. Realise this is turning into a bar crawl but why not.
Onto Café Rhea Silva for pre-dinner drinks and then dinner on the outside terrace of restaurant Amfora. Octopus salad to start followed by Tuna and Steak and a chocolate dessert for Stuart.
Finish the night with champagne at the pool bar before an early start.
Monday
Up at 6.45am this must be our earliest start ever in Croatia. Ready for a trip over the border to Montenegro. Pick up our fellow tourists along the way and then a mere 20 minutes after Dubrovnik airport we reach the Croatia-Montenegro border. Two passport checks by gun carrying guards and not long after we are sitting outside having coffee in the early morning sunshine.
Our trip take us to Kotor, a traditional Montenegrin village and then onto Budva. Our Croatian tour guide is excellent providing us with historical tales and folklore while pointing out how Croatia is superior to Montenegro and more importantly how Montenegro experienced no acts of war on its soil.
Kotor old town is beautiful with mountains looming in the background and sitting by the water which looks more Fjord like than sea. It is a whistle stop tour but gives a flavour of what to expect should we return. Lovely old stone buildings with trade mark tiled roofs, winding narrow streets and the old city walls. We wander passed the beautiful old church and museums and the traditional gift and quirkier shops.
Back on the bus our tour guide keeps talking about a journey on an “interesting road.” The road turns out to be a series of 25 sweeping bends to take us up the mountain to the village of Njegusi. Initially the view is breath taking but the sheer drop starts to become a little scarier by bend number 12 we instinctively clutch the handle on the seat in front like this will help us if we plummet down the side! The road is just wide enough for our bus to pass cars although some have to pull over but when we meet another bus it’s a worrying moment as we edge to the side of the road with no barrier. Our driver is a pro and seems unflustered. We stop for a photo op and perch precariously on the barrier for pictures. It is a relief once we start to head inland. We stop for local cheese and prsut (ham) at Restaurant Zora Njegusi along with other tourists. The military operation involves the staff almost flinging plates or sandwiches of ham and cheese at the hungry hordes together with a local liqueur which after the journey of doom my stomach cannot face. We watch a particularly high maintenance Russian tourist posing while her long suffering man takes seemingly endless photographs of her pouting.
Our next stop is Budva and I’m pleased to say that our journey does not involve the same route back the mountain so it is a more gentle descent. Budva sits by the sea with again a lovely old town and a packed beach. It’s known as little Russia as during the 1970’s following an earthquake the Russians sent people to help there then Communist neighbours to re-build and stayed there. We walk to the harbour and promenade and then sample a Montenegrin beer while watching numerous tourists wearing naval hats (a definite trend) strolling through.
On our way back we pass the airport at Tivat which is basically a strip of runway with a road at the side. We shorten our journey by crossing the water by boat before heading back to the border. We have been meaning to do this trip for ages and are glad we have.
Back at the hotel time for quick turnaround and out to dinner at Yacht Club Orsan. It really is a beautiful setting and the sea food is fabulous. Back to the hotel for a drink at the pool bar.
Tuesday
Time to venture to the old town and prepare ourselves for the tourist frenzy. We negotiate our way to the old harbour and buy tickets for the ferry to the island of Lokrum. Grab an espresso in Poklisar while we wait and buy our Lokrum picnic. Arrive and wander passed the peacocks who roam around the island. Watch the locals hurl themselves from the rocks into the water. Have a cold beer on a comfy sofa in the shade near the saltwater lake and then clamber down the rocks to sit in the sun with a kindle and the sound of the waves (and some factor 30 sun screen!) Decide we will leave the climb up the hill to the fort! After a few relaxing hours wander back to the rocks near the ferry point and sit and wait for the boat.
Back in the old town for lunch at Ferfeto followed by a drink in Onofrio near the fountain.
Head to the hotel for quick change and then wine tasting and cheese and charcuterie plates at D’Vino. Sample a range of Croatian white wines with information from the knowledgeable staff as to their origin. Still hungry so amble along a few streets for tapas. No coffee available so visit an old favourite people watching spot for coffee at Gradskavana. Take a walk to the old harbour and settle down for a relaxing night drinking Prosecco at Revelin (before an Irish stag party arrives, first we’ve ever seen in Dubrovnik and hopefully the last). Stroll down the Stradun for a nightcap in Festival Café.
Wednesday
V big sleep, may have had a few drinks last night. Have lunch at hotel, Stuart opts for beach restaurant while I eat in the Lean and Lite bar on the terrace. Today is a lazy day so we head for the rooftop which houses an indoor pool and outdoor hot tub and loungers. It is empty as people prefer the outdoor pool. Swim, hot tub, kindle, cold drink and repeat for afternoon with only a few other people venturing up here. Perfect relaxation and with stunning views out to the Elafiti Islands.
Out for dinner and have pre dinner drink at Onofrio before our first visit to Gil’s Little Bistro. Having visited Gil's previous restaurant we were intrigued to visit his new venture. Here it's all about the food and the food is great. The staff were very friendly and the service excellent. We ordered tuna sashimi, beef with truffle shavings and the truffle risotto while our waiter recommended the Posip Korta Katarina to drink. There was also a ubiquitous chocolate desert. We were pleased to meet the man himself and it was nice to see the chef talking to his customers and he seemed genuinely interested in people's opinions. We were given a complimentary liqueur and as we were about to leave Gil insisted we should stay for a drink and we enjoyed another glass of wine. Like all the best meals we were there for 4 hours and never felt rushed.
Thursday
Totally in the relaxed way of life now. Start our morning having coffee at Rastica where locals take their time over lunch or a cold beer or glass of wine. Take a look at the Dvori residential complex. Could this be our new home? Not quite as quaint as we would like but some apartments have views of the water, we can dream!
Take a stroll and stop for lunch at Belvedere. It is v hot today and we are struggling in the sunshine. Just need some shade and a soft drink.
Back for a refreshing swim and hot tub and a spot of Scandi crime to read. People are on our terrace today, what are they thinking?
Don’t even make it out of the hotel tonight. Enjoy the sunset outdoors on the terrace before dinner at the Maslina Tavern, pistachio encrusted cod for me and pork for Stuart followed by drinks.
Friday
Last full day. Back to the beach bar Lapad for coffee and as late start time for early lunch in the Academia Caffe near the beautiful Hotel Zagreb, a shady spot popular with all local cats! Take a walk to Cave Bar More which has been carved out of the rocks. Seems a shame not to be in the sunshine but inside the bar is stunning with a circular glass viewing gallery to the cave below and seats on different levels.
Cannot resist a final swim on the terrace before we head out for dinner with our friends Milena and Rudi.
Head out in time to enjoy the sun setting in the old town and enjoy a drink at None Nina as the lights come on in the old town. It’s a great place to sit and watch the world go by. Dinner at Restaurant Kopun a new restaurant run by Milena’s cousin near the old church on the way up to Buza. Didn’t even know this place existed. It is a beautiful setting and the food is great. Always nice to go out with locals and ask for a recommendation. Lovely to catch up with friends and another relaxing dinner enjoying the wine and company. Take our final stroll along the Stradun before saying our goodbyes.
Saturday
Car to the airport and final espresso in the sunshine as our flight is delayed. Do Videnja Dubrovnik.
Hello Dubrovnik, it’s good to be back. Back to the Dubrovnik Palace for a week of relaxation. Too early for check in so time for our first Ozujsko in the Sunset Lounge with a view of the beautiful Elafiti Islands.
Walk into Lapad for lunch by the water then time to check in and get some sleep after a 3.45am start.
Feeling refreshed so head out for pre-dinner drinks at Culto one of a row of modern bars filled with locals as off the tourist trail. A couple of extra strength Mojitos and time for dinner at Teatar. No frills food but good local fish and a bottle of Posip Cara.
Post dinner drinks at Promenada then time for sleep after a long day.
Sunday
Big sleep and then out in the sunshine for a walk around Lapad and Babin Kuk. Stop off at Beach bar Lapad for strong espresso and people watching.
Take the coastal path round to Babin Kuk which is more of a resort area. Stop at restaurant Zoe for lunch which once again has stunning views.
Work our way towards the new Port of Gruz and find a sign for beach bar Cava and make our way down the stone steps to a makeshift bar by the water. Time for another cold Ozujsko and respite from walking in the sunshine.
Continue our walk and end up by Yacht Club Orsan which we have never seen before. Amazing smell from the charcoal grill so stop for a drink and decide we will come back for dinner. Beautiful tranquil stop.
End up at Orka bar where we have been before and watch the boats come and go in the harbour. Realise this is turning into a bar crawl but why not.
Onto Café Rhea Silva for pre-dinner drinks and then dinner on the outside terrace of restaurant Amfora. Octopus salad to start followed by Tuna and Steak and a chocolate dessert for Stuart.
Finish the night with champagne at the pool bar before an early start.
Monday
Up at 6.45am this must be our earliest start ever in Croatia. Ready for a trip over the border to Montenegro. Pick up our fellow tourists along the way and then a mere 20 minutes after Dubrovnik airport we reach the Croatia-Montenegro border. Two passport checks by gun carrying guards and not long after we are sitting outside having coffee in the early morning sunshine.
Our trip take us to Kotor, a traditional Montenegrin village and then onto Budva. Our Croatian tour guide is excellent providing us with historical tales and folklore while pointing out how Croatia is superior to Montenegro and more importantly how Montenegro experienced no acts of war on its soil.
Kotor old town is beautiful with mountains looming in the background and sitting by the water which looks more Fjord like than sea. It is a whistle stop tour but gives a flavour of what to expect should we return. Lovely old stone buildings with trade mark tiled roofs, winding narrow streets and the old city walls. We wander passed the beautiful old church and museums and the traditional gift and quirkier shops.
Back on the bus our tour guide keeps talking about a journey on an “interesting road.” The road turns out to be a series of 25 sweeping bends to take us up the mountain to the village of Njegusi. Initially the view is breath taking but the sheer drop starts to become a little scarier by bend number 12 we instinctively clutch the handle on the seat in front like this will help us if we plummet down the side! The road is just wide enough for our bus to pass cars although some have to pull over but when we meet another bus it’s a worrying moment as we edge to the side of the road with no barrier. Our driver is a pro and seems unflustered. We stop for a photo op and perch precariously on the barrier for pictures. It is a relief once we start to head inland. We stop for local cheese and prsut (ham) at Restaurant Zora Njegusi along with other tourists. The military operation involves the staff almost flinging plates or sandwiches of ham and cheese at the hungry hordes together with a local liqueur which after the journey of doom my stomach cannot face. We watch a particularly high maintenance Russian tourist posing while her long suffering man takes seemingly endless photographs of her pouting.
Our next stop is Budva and I’m pleased to say that our journey does not involve the same route back the mountain so it is a more gentle descent. Budva sits by the sea with again a lovely old town and a packed beach. It’s known as little Russia as during the 1970’s following an earthquake the Russians sent people to help there then Communist neighbours to re-build and stayed there. We walk to the harbour and promenade and then sample a Montenegrin beer while watching numerous tourists wearing naval hats (a definite trend) strolling through.
On our way back we pass the airport at Tivat which is basically a strip of runway with a road at the side. We shorten our journey by crossing the water by boat before heading back to the border. We have been meaning to do this trip for ages and are glad we have.
Back at the hotel time for quick turnaround and out to dinner at Yacht Club Orsan. It really is a beautiful setting and the sea food is fabulous. Back to the hotel for a drink at the pool bar.
Tuesday
Time to venture to the old town and prepare ourselves for the tourist frenzy. We negotiate our way to the old harbour and buy tickets for the ferry to the island of Lokrum. Grab an espresso in Poklisar while we wait and buy our Lokrum picnic. Arrive and wander passed the peacocks who roam around the island. Watch the locals hurl themselves from the rocks into the water. Have a cold beer on a comfy sofa in the shade near the saltwater lake and then clamber down the rocks to sit in the sun with a kindle and the sound of the waves (and some factor 30 sun screen!) Decide we will leave the climb up the hill to the fort! After a few relaxing hours wander back to the rocks near the ferry point and sit and wait for the boat.
Back in the old town for lunch at Ferfeto followed by a drink in Onofrio near the fountain.
Head to the hotel for quick change and then wine tasting and cheese and charcuterie plates at D’Vino. Sample a range of Croatian white wines with information from the knowledgeable staff as to their origin. Still hungry so amble along a few streets for tapas. No coffee available so visit an old favourite people watching spot for coffee at Gradskavana. Take a walk to the old harbour and settle down for a relaxing night drinking Prosecco at Revelin (before an Irish stag party arrives, first we’ve ever seen in Dubrovnik and hopefully the last). Stroll down the Stradun for a nightcap in Festival Café.
Wednesday
V big sleep, may have had a few drinks last night. Have lunch at hotel, Stuart opts for beach restaurant while I eat in the Lean and Lite bar on the terrace. Today is a lazy day so we head for the rooftop which houses an indoor pool and outdoor hot tub and loungers. It is empty as people prefer the outdoor pool. Swim, hot tub, kindle, cold drink and repeat for afternoon with only a few other people venturing up here. Perfect relaxation and with stunning views out to the Elafiti Islands.
Out for dinner and have pre dinner drink at Onofrio before our first visit to Gil’s Little Bistro. Having visited Gil's previous restaurant we were intrigued to visit his new venture. Here it's all about the food and the food is great. The staff were very friendly and the service excellent. We ordered tuna sashimi, beef with truffle shavings and the truffle risotto while our waiter recommended the Posip Korta Katarina to drink. There was also a ubiquitous chocolate desert. We were pleased to meet the man himself and it was nice to see the chef talking to his customers and he seemed genuinely interested in people's opinions. We were given a complimentary liqueur and as we were about to leave Gil insisted we should stay for a drink and we enjoyed another glass of wine. Like all the best meals we were there for 4 hours and never felt rushed.
Thursday
Totally in the relaxed way of life now. Start our morning having coffee at Rastica where locals take their time over lunch or a cold beer or glass of wine. Take a look at the Dvori residential complex. Could this be our new home? Not quite as quaint as we would like but some apartments have views of the water, we can dream!
Take a stroll and stop for lunch at Belvedere. It is v hot today and we are struggling in the sunshine. Just need some shade and a soft drink.
Back for a refreshing swim and hot tub and a spot of Scandi crime to read. People are on our terrace today, what are they thinking?
Don’t even make it out of the hotel tonight. Enjoy the sunset outdoors on the terrace before dinner at the Maslina Tavern, pistachio encrusted cod for me and pork for Stuart followed by drinks.
Friday
Last full day. Back to the beach bar Lapad for coffee and as late start time for early lunch in the Academia Caffe near the beautiful Hotel Zagreb, a shady spot popular with all local cats! Take a walk to Cave Bar More which has been carved out of the rocks. Seems a shame not to be in the sunshine but inside the bar is stunning with a circular glass viewing gallery to the cave below and seats on different levels.
Cannot resist a final swim on the terrace before we head out for dinner with our friends Milena and Rudi.
Head out in time to enjoy the sun setting in the old town and enjoy a drink at None Nina as the lights come on in the old town. It’s a great place to sit and watch the world go by. Dinner at Restaurant Kopun a new restaurant run by Milena’s cousin near the old church on the way up to Buza. Didn’t even know this place existed. It is a beautiful setting and the food is great. Always nice to go out with locals and ask for a recommendation. Lovely to catch up with friends and another relaxing dinner enjoying the wine and company. Take our final stroll along the Stradun before saying our goodbyes.
Saturday
Car to the airport and final espresso in the sunshine as our flight is delayed. Do Videnja Dubrovnik.