Warsaw
A sprawling and busy modern city with more bars and restaurants than you could ever visit. The Palace of Culture and Science looms over the skyline and while understandably hated by the locals for its history it is an incredible monument to the Soviet era and strangely beguiling. Full of hustle and bustle, Warsaw will keep you entertained and don’t underestimate the size of the city. The Secret Garden is a must to visit, go now before it disappears.
Warsaw Diary Blog 2012
Sunday 3rd June
Arrive at hotel after speedy Wizz air flight. What a difference to arrive after a late afternoon flight. No having to get up at some god-awful hour. Inter Continental Warsaw very nice, well set up for the busy business executive and us! Unpack and are delighted to see our room overlooks the monumental Palace of Culture and Science. We’re probably not supposed to like it but we do.
Celebrate our arrival with a cocktail in the hotel bar + One. I’m still obsessed with Mojitos since our trip to Havana but Stuart more appropriately has a Polish Mojito, vodka heavy!
As we are only here for 3 nights we decide to go to a restaurant we have read about called Osteria. Our concierge books a table and arranges a taxi to our venue. The restaurant is beautiful, with plants, greenery and fairy lights decorating the entrance. We sit near the tank, this being a seafood restaurant and I watch throughout the evening as one of the lobsters makes a concerted bid for freedom! Stuart had marinated octopus with crispy Parma ham carpaccio and seaweed followed by Monkfish and Argentinian beef tenderloin and while I had a main course, of delicious tuna. Stuart completed his meal with a white and dark chocolate mousse desert. The restaurant was very quiet but this did not spoil the atmosphere.
Realising we did not really know where we were we started to walk and were able to use the towering Palace of Culture and Science to navigate ourselves back towards home. We decided to go to the Panorama bar in the Marriot hotel, famed for its views over the city. We took the lift to the 40th floor and ordered some cocktails. The views are stunning and the lights glistening in the distance belong to the brand new stadium all set for Euro 2012 which is due to start in less than a week. We headed back to the hotel for a nightcap and bed.
Monday 4th June
Up at a decent hour and head out for the day. On arrival we had not thought the city looked particularly geared up for Euro 2012 but we see the fan zone up and ready with sound systems being tested and gradually note the giant footballs (and commercial sponsor signs!)
We head down towards the river which proves more difficult than you would think, it is very well hidden. It is not a feature of the city, there are no cafes and restaurants but we do find the futuristic science centre. From here we cut back to the old town, which has been totally reconstructed after being destroyed during the Second World War. We stroll around the lovely Market Square browsing the restaurants and shops and stop for an al fresco lunch at Giovanni Rubino. We pass a building nearing completion with a strange circular glass extension, which turns out to be a T.V. studio for Euro 2012, which we will see in the coverage when we get home.
From there we walk along Nowy Siat and stop for a drink in a lovely courtyard called St Andrews Place, to make Stuart feel at home. Our first Polish beer of the trip and worth the wait. We admit we have lost our bearings somewhat but not to be deterred continue to wander. We end up in a fashionable shopping district with designer shops a plenty. This city looks like its economy is doing ok. We stop for a drink in Szpilka a busy bar with pavement seats and interesting art work inside. We make our way back to the hotel passed another restaurant we hope to visit with the interesting name of Butchery and Wine.
Back at the hotel we head for the 43rd floor which houses the wellness centre. Relax our aching feet with a swim, sauna and soothing Jacuzzi bath. After a quick change we head back to Butchery and Wine for dinner. This place must be good because it is a Monday night and packed. The name of the restaurant is apt, there is a picture of a cow so you can decide which part you want. Red meat not being my food of choice I bring shame on us both by ordering fish. Stuart had a fillet steak. The food is very good and the wine is just as good.
We head next door to a bar called You and Me and have our first indoor cigarette, very civilized or not! From here we take a walk in search of a late night bar and negotiate a diversion to the Paparazzi bar. Again it is very busy for a Monday night and seems willing to stay open until everyone is ready to go home. We amble back to the hotel.
Tuesday 5th June
Late up this morning, definitely had a drink last night! We walk a few streets back from our hotel to the area which was formerly the Warsaw Ghetto. The address on our map appears to be a private residence so we do not intrude. We make our way to the Palace of Culture and Science. This place is so big it takes us about three attempts to work out where the entrance is. Once in the building is no less vast not to mention ornate. The building houses a theatre, cinema, studio, exhibition space, club and who knows what else. We start by taking the lift to the viewing gallery. The views are amazing and we look down to see a man dangling over the side ready to unfurl a Euro banner, terrifying! While here we visit the Leonardo Da Vinci exhibition of drawings and inventions.
We retrace our steps to have lunch outdoors at Szpilka though it’s probably not that warm. From here we try to find the Secret Garden off Nowy Siat. Walking through a courtyard we find an urban oasis of bars, vintage shops and other random establishments with some impressive graffiti or art depending on your point of view. We settle on a beer outside Manhattan with it glitter ball as the unfortunately named Klapps which has vibrators for beer taps is closed. We work out that our two large glasses of beer cost less than £2 while vodka is 50p per shot. This place must be bonkers late at night. Not sure how locals living here get much sleep. We later read that it is due to close in 2013 which is a real shame.
We head back to the hotel stopping for coffee in Bla Bla to change for dinner on our last night. We have dinner in the nearby Filmnowia which pays homage to Polish actors. Stuart had Polish dumplings and Veal while I unimaginatively had another fish dish with a rice and mushroom accompaniment. We attempt to go to the club in the Palace of Culture and Science as it looks outrageously ornate but unfortunately is it closed so we settle for drinks in the newly opened bar underneath our hotel.
Wednesday 6th June
Had meant to get up for a swim before we left but the bed is too comfy. Pack and head down for coffee before we leave. Listen to the corporate sponsors arranging football tickets for the great and the good.
We take a hotel taxi to the airport as our taxi driver skillfully avoids some suicidal driving.
Airport security completed we end a long held mission to track down those elusive Three Bit chocolate bars first experienced in Krakow. Three Bit bars and a bottle of Chopin vodka = party!
Arrive at hotel after speedy Wizz air flight. What a difference to arrive after a late afternoon flight. No having to get up at some god-awful hour. Inter Continental Warsaw very nice, well set up for the busy business executive and us! Unpack and are delighted to see our room overlooks the monumental Palace of Culture and Science. We’re probably not supposed to like it but we do.
Celebrate our arrival with a cocktail in the hotel bar + One. I’m still obsessed with Mojitos since our trip to Havana but Stuart more appropriately has a Polish Mojito, vodka heavy!
As we are only here for 3 nights we decide to go to a restaurant we have read about called Osteria. Our concierge books a table and arranges a taxi to our venue. The restaurant is beautiful, with plants, greenery and fairy lights decorating the entrance. We sit near the tank, this being a seafood restaurant and I watch throughout the evening as one of the lobsters makes a concerted bid for freedom! Stuart had marinated octopus with crispy Parma ham carpaccio and seaweed followed by Monkfish and Argentinian beef tenderloin and while I had a main course, of delicious tuna. Stuart completed his meal with a white and dark chocolate mousse desert. The restaurant was very quiet but this did not spoil the atmosphere.
Realising we did not really know where we were we started to walk and were able to use the towering Palace of Culture and Science to navigate ourselves back towards home. We decided to go to the Panorama bar in the Marriot hotel, famed for its views over the city. We took the lift to the 40th floor and ordered some cocktails. The views are stunning and the lights glistening in the distance belong to the brand new stadium all set for Euro 2012 which is due to start in less than a week. We headed back to the hotel for a nightcap and bed.
Monday 4th June
Up at a decent hour and head out for the day. On arrival we had not thought the city looked particularly geared up for Euro 2012 but we see the fan zone up and ready with sound systems being tested and gradually note the giant footballs (and commercial sponsor signs!)
We head down towards the river which proves more difficult than you would think, it is very well hidden. It is not a feature of the city, there are no cafes and restaurants but we do find the futuristic science centre. From here we cut back to the old town, which has been totally reconstructed after being destroyed during the Second World War. We stroll around the lovely Market Square browsing the restaurants and shops and stop for an al fresco lunch at Giovanni Rubino. We pass a building nearing completion with a strange circular glass extension, which turns out to be a T.V. studio for Euro 2012, which we will see in the coverage when we get home.
From there we walk along Nowy Siat and stop for a drink in a lovely courtyard called St Andrews Place, to make Stuart feel at home. Our first Polish beer of the trip and worth the wait. We admit we have lost our bearings somewhat but not to be deterred continue to wander. We end up in a fashionable shopping district with designer shops a plenty. This city looks like its economy is doing ok. We stop for a drink in Szpilka a busy bar with pavement seats and interesting art work inside. We make our way back to the hotel passed another restaurant we hope to visit with the interesting name of Butchery and Wine.
Back at the hotel we head for the 43rd floor which houses the wellness centre. Relax our aching feet with a swim, sauna and soothing Jacuzzi bath. After a quick change we head back to Butchery and Wine for dinner. This place must be good because it is a Monday night and packed. The name of the restaurant is apt, there is a picture of a cow so you can decide which part you want. Red meat not being my food of choice I bring shame on us both by ordering fish. Stuart had a fillet steak. The food is very good and the wine is just as good.
We head next door to a bar called You and Me and have our first indoor cigarette, very civilized or not! From here we take a walk in search of a late night bar and negotiate a diversion to the Paparazzi bar. Again it is very busy for a Monday night and seems willing to stay open until everyone is ready to go home. We amble back to the hotel.
Tuesday 5th June
Late up this morning, definitely had a drink last night! We walk a few streets back from our hotel to the area which was formerly the Warsaw Ghetto. The address on our map appears to be a private residence so we do not intrude. We make our way to the Palace of Culture and Science. This place is so big it takes us about three attempts to work out where the entrance is. Once in the building is no less vast not to mention ornate. The building houses a theatre, cinema, studio, exhibition space, club and who knows what else. We start by taking the lift to the viewing gallery. The views are amazing and we look down to see a man dangling over the side ready to unfurl a Euro banner, terrifying! While here we visit the Leonardo Da Vinci exhibition of drawings and inventions.
We retrace our steps to have lunch outdoors at Szpilka though it’s probably not that warm. From here we try to find the Secret Garden off Nowy Siat. Walking through a courtyard we find an urban oasis of bars, vintage shops and other random establishments with some impressive graffiti or art depending on your point of view. We settle on a beer outside Manhattan with it glitter ball as the unfortunately named Klapps which has vibrators for beer taps is closed. We work out that our two large glasses of beer cost less than £2 while vodka is 50p per shot. This place must be bonkers late at night. Not sure how locals living here get much sleep. We later read that it is due to close in 2013 which is a real shame.
We head back to the hotel stopping for coffee in Bla Bla to change for dinner on our last night. We have dinner in the nearby Filmnowia which pays homage to Polish actors. Stuart had Polish dumplings and Veal while I unimaginatively had another fish dish with a rice and mushroom accompaniment. We attempt to go to the club in the Palace of Culture and Science as it looks outrageously ornate but unfortunately is it closed so we settle for drinks in the newly opened bar underneath our hotel.
Wednesday 6th June
Had meant to get up for a swim before we left but the bed is too comfy. Pack and head down for coffee before we leave. Listen to the corporate sponsors arranging football tickets for the great and the good.
We take a hotel taxi to the airport as our taxi driver skillfully avoids some suicidal driving.
Airport security completed we end a long held mission to track down those elusive Three Bit chocolate bars first experienced in Krakow. Three Bit bars and a bottle of Chopin vodka = party!
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