Riga
Home of the singing revolution we visited Riga during the midsummer festival with the locals in fine voice and the charming old town filled with food and flower stalls. Riga mixes the old and new well. Enjoy cocktails in a stylish bar or enjoy the calm oasis that is Kronvald park. Take a train to Jurmala on the Baltic coast.
Riga Diary Blog 2009
Getting our bearings on arrival we began our holiday properly by paying a visit to the 11th floor hotel bar in the Albert Hotel, the Star Lounge. This was to be the first of many visits after noting a sign advertising two for 1 cocktails between 4 and 8pm. We sampled a local beer on the sunny outdoor terrace while bravely looking down through the gaps of the floorboards at Riga below. Looking out over the city we had an almost uninterrupted view along the skyline.
With strategic planning we guessed the direction to the old town. On the first day we consulted our map like tourists but soon realised it was a mere 15-20 minute walk from our hotel. The walk took us passed the ornate orthodox cathedral and down to the square housing the Freedom Monument. The monument which is of great importance to locals is guarded by soldiers and flanked by Kronvald Park which runs through the city. The old town begins just below the square housing the Freedom Monument and is a warren of picturesque cobbled streets which are home to historic buildings, bars, restaurants and shops. Take a different turn each time and you‟ll find something new. The first of our daily visits to Vecriga (Old Town) started with pizza at Velvet, a cafe/restaurant near St Peter‟s Church and a visit to Randoms a local shop selling clothing, CD‟s and DVD‟s though in truth our visit was more to do with the name. Much like Simples!
Walking on we ended up in Town Hall Square home to the House of the Blackheads and the Museum of the Occupations which we would visit later in our stay. From here you can see the Daugava, Riga‟s river which is more working river than tourist attraction. Strolling along the waterfront we arrived at Paldies Dievam Piektdiena ir Klat, a cocktail bar and ordered some drinks from the extensive menu. Happy hours seem popular in Riga and when the drinks arrived we were already seeing double. Sitting outside with the sky slightly clouding over we noted the locals sitting wrapped in blankets and soon after our waitress brought a blanket to our table. As Riga is not noted for its tropical climate the locals are determined to make the most of the summer regardless of the weather and most restaurants and bars with outside seating leave blankets lying out for their customers, some more garish than others.
From here we ambled through the old town and stopped off at Domini Canes, (Skārņu 20, Riga) for dinner, a small but cosy restaurant with a tasteful interior. While the cocktails prevent us from remembering exactly what we ate the food was good, reasonable for the old town setting and the atmosphere laid back. We rounded off our first day by coming full circle back to the Star Lounge setting the pattern for our stay.
Wednesday 17th June
Woke up in our comfortable hotel bed which had individual duvets, always a genius idea. Made it down to breakfast which was served until 11am. Breakfast was not spectacular but a nice bonus when included in the price of the room. As the weather for our stay was to be mixed we decided to take a chance and make a visit to Jurmala on the Baltic coast. Our walk to the train station started in the wrong direction but this took us onto Antonijas iela a street to the right of our hotel which housed a number of local bars and restaurants which we might have not investigated save for our unintentional diversion. Finding the right road we walked to the central railway terminal situated at Stacijas Laukams. The station was somewhat confusing looking more like a shopping mall. There were few signs but on purchasing our tickets for Majori, the main town to visit in Jurmala we were told to head upstairs and eventually found our platform. The trains were frequent and very cheap. Boarding the train felt like the beginning of an adventure as we hauled ourselves up the steep steps onto the old style train. Worryingly, the initial stops had no signs but thankfully the bigger stations closer to Majori did. After travelling though the suburbs we continued on through areas of pine forests intersected by cycling and walking tracks.
Arriving in Majori which was approximately a 35 minute journey we made our way to the main street home to hotels, shops, restaurants and visitor attractions. We walked the length of the main street and made our way to the beach, mile upon mile of sand and open expanse and fresh Baltic air. Majori was pretty quiet on our visit but you can imagine at the height of summer it must be filled with families holidaying and taking advantage of the blue flag beach. Majori used to be known as a holiday destination for the aristocracy and later high ranking Communist party members and is sometimes described as the Hamptons of the Baltic, an exaggeration but this does not detract from the beautiful beach and pretty painted clapperboard houses. Today Majori is still popular for spa treatments and some of the hotels have been refurbished to attract wealthy tourists. It still has a slightly quaint quality to it but is very charming. Our timing was perfect as after walking on the beach we headed back to the main street for lunch just as the rain came down.
We returned to Riga and walked from the station into Kronvald Park. There we found the Apsara tea house which we had been told to visit by my niece who had visited Riga aged 2. The key attraction had been that after heading up the spiral staircase there is a circular floor where you take your shoes off, settle down on a cushion and watch the world go by. More fun than the usual coffe chain experience.
Arriving back in our neighbourhood we went for a drink in one of the local bars we had spotted earlier, Kapteina Enriko pulkstenis, (Anonijas 13) a strange hotch potch of styles with old sofas amd mis matched furniture. It had a lively atmosphere and a much more local feel.
After a power nap brought on by the Baltic air we headed out for dinner to Hospitalis which is somewhat bizarrely a hospital themed restaurant apparently owned by some local doctors. Stuart was eager to go after learning that the waitresses dress as nurses. The interior was, as expected clinical. The walls were filled with screens showing clips from films such as One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest. A bath containing goldfish was immediately noticeable but throughout the duration of dinner we continued to notice x rays on the wall and menu holders made from surgical scissors. Despite the gimmicks the food was good and it is definitely worth a visit. Stuart ate baked deer filet with potato and caps au gratin and sea buckthorn sauce, not the usual hospital food. When looking for the restroom our waitress advised me to make sure I visited the one on my right. Inside were wall to wall mirrors which was somewhat surreal, like being in a Chemical Brothers video.
We finished our night in the Skyline Bar at the Reval Hotel, known for its fabulous views being situated on the 26th floor. The hotel is sprawling and busy. Disappointingly the lift only takes you to the 22nd floor, having to walk the rest of the way. For me if I‟m going for a cocktail in a Skyline Bar and paying hotel prices I want my lift to go all the way so I can make an entrance. The views were worth walking those extra couple of floors for though. As we were approaching the longest day of the year the sun had still not quite completely set and the sky boasted an impressive spectrum of red tinged hues. The bar attracted a wide range of people, tourists, business people and some Eurotrash!
Thursday 18th June
A combination of walking, eating out, drinking and generally being relaxed made us sleep for hours. No breakfast for us. We decided to take a walk to the Central Market which is housed in four zeppelin hangars in the area around the Moscow District. Each hangar stocks a particular food so you can find yourself in a world of cheese or a world of meat which would be overwhelming to even the biggest carnivore. Outside are market stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, clothing, baggage, electrical goods and pretty much anything else. While not an obvious tourist attraction it is worth the visit to experience the daily buzz of people going about their business and probably a more authentic experience than life in the picture postcard old town. The surrounding area and buildings had much more of a soviet look to them and the other development prevalent around the city did not seem to have made it this far.
From there we strolled along the waterfront and stopped off at Rock "N" Riga for a drink. The bar is situated on the corner of an intersection so while enjoying my drink I came face to face with the occupants of the passing trams and trolley buses of which there are many. Stuart was pleased to see our waitress from Hospitalis as we left the bar.
For our evening entertainment we decided to try one of the restaurants on Antonijas iela having found it in our copy of Riga This Week provided in our hotel. The guide had details of local attractions, events, bars and restaurants. Unfortunately, the restaurant we had chosen was nowhere to be seen so our guide was not totally up to date. However, a new restaurant had opened up on the same premises called Black and White so we gave it a try. The front of the restaurant contained a small bar where people were watching the big game on the T.V. Throughout our stay we had seen taxis and buses passing by with the cryptic message “Euro basket women.” It turned out that Riga was hosting the Women‟s European Basketball championships and that night was the crunch match between Latvia and Russia. The basement restaurant had a relaxed atmosphere with the kind of decor which would be described on home makeover programmes as shabby chic. The food was once again good and the young staff friendly. The basketball match went down to the wire. Stuart had checked on the score after hearing the claps and cheers. The staff apologised for the noise which had actually added to the atmosphere and brought us free drinks after dinner which was a nice touch. Unfortunately Latvia lost the match which was a shame as bearing in mind their history a victory over Russia seemed long overdue.
Leaving the restaurant we stopped off at a nearby cafe/bar called Caramel Rouge. There is lots of outdoor seating including comfy sofas and regulation blankets of but the rain drove us inside. Stuart was pleased to see the bar had smoking and non smoking sections, most of the restaurants and bars in Riga being non smoking. This is definitely a local bar with no other tourists in sight. Food is served till late and closing is apparently when the last person leaves. Despite being in a permanent state of trying to kick the cigarettes for good it seemed rude not to have an indoor cigarette. It also had the added bonus of table service so all in all an ideal bar.
Friday 19th June
Started our day with some retail therapy. Having already purchased my souvenirs from the disappointingly tasteful souvenir shops, we moved onto proper shopping. We found a new designer shopping emporium called the Plaza Boutique, Torņu 4, Riga Phone: 371 67212181 Working hours: Mon-Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat-Sun : - closed. Inside I tried to browse nonchalantly and avoided standing anywhere near the 5”9 model type trying on a dress. The Plaza has not one but two shoe departments and Stuart kindly offered to buy me some shoes. Having declined politely I succumbed to a pair of black Alexander McQueen peep toe shoes with killer heels and a neon pink sole. We may have thought twice if we‟d been able to do the currency conversion while in the shop.
From here it was a short walk to the Museum of the Occupations, a sobering experience after some frivolous shopping. The museum is a must to understand Latvia‟s history and the importance of their new found independence and sense of nationality. Latvia has been occupied by amongst others the Poles, the Swedes, the Germans and the Russians. After enjoying a brief taste of independence after World War 1 the Second World War led to further occupation which continued until the country finally regained independence in 1991. Many Latvians suffered great hardship under the Soviet regime and were sent to Labour camps where they were separated from their families some of whom they would never see again and many lost their lives. There was also a sense of the conflict felt by many Latvians during the Second World War not knowing which of the Russians and the Nazis were the lesser of the two evils. It was disappointing to note that Western countries had done nothing to stop the Soviets occupying Latvia during the Second World War and systematically enforcing their rule. This continued following the end of the Second World War where some countries enjoyed the taste of freedom while Latvia‟s plight was largely ignored. The display of letters from those Latvians who were exiled was poignant and moving especially knowing that many of the letters never even reached the families for whom they were intended. We can only hope that this time Latvia can prosper as an independent nation and weather the current economic storm as while we were there we had witnessed a protest at government cutbacks.
We were in Riga just prior to the Latvian holiday celebrating Midsummer, Ligo and Jani which falls on the 23rd - 24th June. This is an important holiday for the Latvians and there was a great sense of anticipation in Riga. The Old Town was full of trestle tables which were turned into an outdoor market selling food and drink in preparation for the holiday. There were also lots of stalls selling flowers which young children were wearing entwined around twigs. Apparently, the majority of people leave the city for the countryside or the coast to partake in their celebrations but it was nice to enjoy the atmosphere in the build up. Before heading to our hotel we stopped in one of the quiet back streets and Stuart decided he would try the local drink Riga Balzams a traditional Latvian herbal liqueur with a lethal proof. Having tried absinthe in Prague, grappe in Italy and Croatia and Unicum in Budapest I decided to refrain. Not knowing the etiquette when our waiter asked if he would like anything with his Riga Balzams Stuart ordered a beer and our waiter shrugged. Perhaps water or coffee would have been a better option. I felt obliged to have a sip and was glad I had ordered a beer. An acquired taste.
On our way back to the hotel we booked a table for Gastronome Brīvības 31, Riga Phone: +371 67772356 Working hours: Mon-Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 0:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Gastronome is part of the Reval Hotel and has a good reputation for seafood. At the back of the restaurant is a lovely delicatessen selling interesting items including caviar vodka. Surprisingly, the restaurant was not very busy for a Friday night. Despite some items on the menu not being available the food was excellent. I tried a local Latvian fish with fresh vegetables and Stuart had a seafood assortment. Gastronome was a short walk to our hotel so we headed back in that direction for drinks in Caramel Rouge and more indoor cigarettes. The bar was busy on a Friday night and seems to be a popular meeting spot. We finished as usual with a drink in our hotel after a quick change of footwear so I could give my newly acquired McQueens an outing which involved tottering in and out of the lift.
Saturday 20th June
Out last day in Riga. As our flight was in the evening we packed our bags and checked out, leaving our luggage in the hotel. We went for coffee in the Old Town where Stuart decided to start his day with a chocolate mousse, why not? We retraced our steps back to Velvet for lunch and more fabulous pizza. Sitting outside on the thankfully covered terrace a heavy rain shower started. There was nothing else for it but to sit it out wrapped in a blanket. From there we strolled around some of the old town streets we had not yet seen and on towards the water passed Riga Castle. Walking over one of the bridges we spotted some steps which took us down to the waterside and walked along to the port where the ferries depart across the Baltic to Sweden. From here the waterway which runs through Kronvald Park starts and we followed the water from the port into the park. Kronvald Park really is a tranquil oasis in the city and is beautifully maintained. It contains quirky touches such as the bridge with love padlocks on the railings where couples fix their padlocks many with their names on and throw away the key. We left the park near the Opera House and headed to the Riga Hotel an old hotel on the edge of the old town for a cold beverage. The hotel had an air of slightly faded glory but also old school glamour.
We walked for the final time back to the hotel in time to catch happy hour and enjoy a farewell cocktail or two. I was sad to leave the Albert Hotel which was an ideal base for a city break, comfortable, clean, convenient and reasonably priced with some of the best Caipirinhas I‟d ever had and sad to say goodbye to Riga which at just over a two hour flight away makes for an interesting city break with something for everyone.
Getting our bearings on arrival we began our holiday properly by paying a visit to the 11th floor hotel bar in the Albert Hotel, the Star Lounge. This was to be the first of many visits after noting a sign advertising two for 1 cocktails between 4 and 8pm. We sampled a local beer on the sunny outdoor terrace while bravely looking down through the gaps of the floorboards at Riga below. Looking out over the city we had an almost uninterrupted view along the skyline.
With strategic planning we guessed the direction to the old town. On the first day we consulted our map like tourists but soon realised it was a mere 15-20 minute walk from our hotel. The walk took us passed the ornate orthodox cathedral and down to the square housing the Freedom Monument. The monument which is of great importance to locals is guarded by soldiers and flanked by Kronvald Park which runs through the city. The old town begins just below the square housing the Freedom Monument and is a warren of picturesque cobbled streets which are home to historic buildings, bars, restaurants and shops. Take a different turn each time and you‟ll find something new. The first of our daily visits to Vecriga (Old Town) started with pizza at Velvet, a cafe/restaurant near St Peter‟s Church and a visit to Randoms a local shop selling clothing, CD‟s and DVD‟s though in truth our visit was more to do with the name. Much like Simples!
Walking on we ended up in Town Hall Square home to the House of the Blackheads and the Museum of the Occupations which we would visit later in our stay. From here you can see the Daugava, Riga‟s river which is more working river than tourist attraction. Strolling along the waterfront we arrived at Paldies Dievam Piektdiena ir Klat, a cocktail bar and ordered some drinks from the extensive menu. Happy hours seem popular in Riga and when the drinks arrived we were already seeing double. Sitting outside with the sky slightly clouding over we noted the locals sitting wrapped in blankets and soon after our waitress brought a blanket to our table. As Riga is not noted for its tropical climate the locals are determined to make the most of the summer regardless of the weather and most restaurants and bars with outside seating leave blankets lying out for their customers, some more garish than others.
From here we ambled through the old town and stopped off at Domini Canes, (Skārņu 20, Riga) for dinner, a small but cosy restaurant with a tasteful interior. While the cocktails prevent us from remembering exactly what we ate the food was good, reasonable for the old town setting and the atmosphere laid back. We rounded off our first day by coming full circle back to the Star Lounge setting the pattern for our stay.
Wednesday 17th June
Woke up in our comfortable hotel bed which had individual duvets, always a genius idea. Made it down to breakfast which was served until 11am. Breakfast was not spectacular but a nice bonus when included in the price of the room. As the weather for our stay was to be mixed we decided to take a chance and make a visit to Jurmala on the Baltic coast. Our walk to the train station started in the wrong direction but this took us onto Antonijas iela a street to the right of our hotel which housed a number of local bars and restaurants which we might have not investigated save for our unintentional diversion. Finding the right road we walked to the central railway terminal situated at Stacijas Laukams. The station was somewhat confusing looking more like a shopping mall. There were few signs but on purchasing our tickets for Majori, the main town to visit in Jurmala we were told to head upstairs and eventually found our platform. The trains were frequent and very cheap. Boarding the train felt like the beginning of an adventure as we hauled ourselves up the steep steps onto the old style train. Worryingly, the initial stops had no signs but thankfully the bigger stations closer to Majori did. After travelling though the suburbs we continued on through areas of pine forests intersected by cycling and walking tracks.
Arriving in Majori which was approximately a 35 minute journey we made our way to the main street home to hotels, shops, restaurants and visitor attractions. We walked the length of the main street and made our way to the beach, mile upon mile of sand and open expanse and fresh Baltic air. Majori was pretty quiet on our visit but you can imagine at the height of summer it must be filled with families holidaying and taking advantage of the blue flag beach. Majori used to be known as a holiday destination for the aristocracy and later high ranking Communist party members and is sometimes described as the Hamptons of the Baltic, an exaggeration but this does not detract from the beautiful beach and pretty painted clapperboard houses. Today Majori is still popular for spa treatments and some of the hotels have been refurbished to attract wealthy tourists. It still has a slightly quaint quality to it but is very charming. Our timing was perfect as after walking on the beach we headed back to the main street for lunch just as the rain came down.
We returned to Riga and walked from the station into Kronvald Park. There we found the Apsara tea house which we had been told to visit by my niece who had visited Riga aged 2. The key attraction had been that after heading up the spiral staircase there is a circular floor where you take your shoes off, settle down on a cushion and watch the world go by. More fun than the usual coffe chain experience.
Arriving back in our neighbourhood we went for a drink in one of the local bars we had spotted earlier, Kapteina Enriko pulkstenis, (Anonijas 13) a strange hotch potch of styles with old sofas amd mis matched furniture. It had a lively atmosphere and a much more local feel.
After a power nap brought on by the Baltic air we headed out for dinner to Hospitalis which is somewhat bizarrely a hospital themed restaurant apparently owned by some local doctors. Stuart was eager to go after learning that the waitresses dress as nurses. The interior was, as expected clinical. The walls were filled with screens showing clips from films such as One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest. A bath containing goldfish was immediately noticeable but throughout the duration of dinner we continued to notice x rays on the wall and menu holders made from surgical scissors. Despite the gimmicks the food was good and it is definitely worth a visit. Stuart ate baked deer filet with potato and caps au gratin and sea buckthorn sauce, not the usual hospital food. When looking for the restroom our waitress advised me to make sure I visited the one on my right. Inside were wall to wall mirrors which was somewhat surreal, like being in a Chemical Brothers video.
We finished our night in the Skyline Bar at the Reval Hotel, known for its fabulous views being situated on the 26th floor. The hotel is sprawling and busy. Disappointingly the lift only takes you to the 22nd floor, having to walk the rest of the way. For me if I‟m going for a cocktail in a Skyline Bar and paying hotel prices I want my lift to go all the way so I can make an entrance. The views were worth walking those extra couple of floors for though. As we were approaching the longest day of the year the sun had still not quite completely set and the sky boasted an impressive spectrum of red tinged hues. The bar attracted a wide range of people, tourists, business people and some Eurotrash!
Thursday 18th June
A combination of walking, eating out, drinking and generally being relaxed made us sleep for hours. No breakfast for us. We decided to take a walk to the Central Market which is housed in four zeppelin hangars in the area around the Moscow District. Each hangar stocks a particular food so you can find yourself in a world of cheese or a world of meat which would be overwhelming to even the biggest carnivore. Outside are market stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, clothing, baggage, electrical goods and pretty much anything else. While not an obvious tourist attraction it is worth the visit to experience the daily buzz of people going about their business and probably a more authentic experience than life in the picture postcard old town. The surrounding area and buildings had much more of a soviet look to them and the other development prevalent around the city did not seem to have made it this far.
From there we strolled along the waterfront and stopped off at Rock "N" Riga for a drink. The bar is situated on the corner of an intersection so while enjoying my drink I came face to face with the occupants of the passing trams and trolley buses of which there are many. Stuart was pleased to see our waitress from Hospitalis as we left the bar.
For our evening entertainment we decided to try one of the restaurants on Antonijas iela having found it in our copy of Riga This Week provided in our hotel. The guide had details of local attractions, events, bars and restaurants. Unfortunately, the restaurant we had chosen was nowhere to be seen so our guide was not totally up to date. However, a new restaurant had opened up on the same premises called Black and White so we gave it a try. The front of the restaurant contained a small bar where people were watching the big game on the T.V. Throughout our stay we had seen taxis and buses passing by with the cryptic message “Euro basket women.” It turned out that Riga was hosting the Women‟s European Basketball championships and that night was the crunch match between Latvia and Russia. The basement restaurant had a relaxed atmosphere with the kind of decor which would be described on home makeover programmes as shabby chic. The food was once again good and the young staff friendly. The basketball match went down to the wire. Stuart had checked on the score after hearing the claps and cheers. The staff apologised for the noise which had actually added to the atmosphere and brought us free drinks after dinner which was a nice touch. Unfortunately Latvia lost the match which was a shame as bearing in mind their history a victory over Russia seemed long overdue.
Leaving the restaurant we stopped off at a nearby cafe/bar called Caramel Rouge. There is lots of outdoor seating including comfy sofas and regulation blankets of but the rain drove us inside. Stuart was pleased to see the bar had smoking and non smoking sections, most of the restaurants and bars in Riga being non smoking. This is definitely a local bar with no other tourists in sight. Food is served till late and closing is apparently when the last person leaves. Despite being in a permanent state of trying to kick the cigarettes for good it seemed rude not to have an indoor cigarette. It also had the added bonus of table service so all in all an ideal bar.
Friday 19th June
Started our day with some retail therapy. Having already purchased my souvenirs from the disappointingly tasteful souvenir shops, we moved onto proper shopping. We found a new designer shopping emporium called the Plaza Boutique, Torņu 4, Riga Phone: 371 67212181 Working hours: Mon-Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat-Sun : - closed. Inside I tried to browse nonchalantly and avoided standing anywhere near the 5”9 model type trying on a dress. The Plaza has not one but two shoe departments and Stuart kindly offered to buy me some shoes. Having declined politely I succumbed to a pair of black Alexander McQueen peep toe shoes with killer heels and a neon pink sole. We may have thought twice if we‟d been able to do the currency conversion while in the shop.
From here it was a short walk to the Museum of the Occupations, a sobering experience after some frivolous shopping. The museum is a must to understand Latvia‟s history and the importance of their new found independence and sense of nationality. Latvia has been occupied by amongst others the Poles, the Swedes, the Germans and the Russians. After enjoying a brief taste of independence after World War 1 the Second World War led to further occupation which continued until the country finally regained independence in 1991. Many Latvians suffered great hardship under the Soviet regime and were sent to Labour camps where they were separated from their families some of whom they would never see again and many lost their lives. There was also a sense of the conflict felt by many Latvians during the Second World War not knowing which of the Russians and the Nazis were the lesser of the two evils. It was disappointing to note that Western countries had done nothing to stop the Soviets occupying Latvia during the Second World War and systematically enforcing their rule. This continued following the end of the Second World War where some countries enjoyed the taste of freedom while Latvia‟s plight was largely ignored. The display of letters from those Latvians who were exiled was poignant and moving especially knowing that many of the letters never even reached the families for whom they were intended. We can only hope that this time Latvia can prosper as an independent nation and weather the current economic storm as while we were there we had witnessed a protest at government cutbacks.
We were in Riga just prior to the Latvian holiday celebrating Midsummer, Ligo and Jani which falls on the 23rd - 24th June. This is an important holiday for the Latvians and there was a great sense of anticipation in Riga. The Old Town was full of trestle tables which were turned into an outdoor market selling food and drink in preparation for the holiday. There were also lots of stalls selling flowers which young children were wearing entwined around twigs. Apparently, the majority of people leave the city for the countryside or the coast to partake in their celebrations but it was nice to enjoy the atmosphere in the build up. Before heading to our hotel we stopped in one of the quiet back streets and Stuart decided he would try the local drink Riga Balzams a traditional Latvian herbal liqueur with a lethal proof. Having tried absinthe in Prague, grappe in Italy and Croatia and Unicum in Budapest I decided to refrain. Not knowing the etiquette when our waiter asked if he would like anything with his Riga Balzams Stuart ordered a beer and our waiter shrugged. Perhaps water or coffee would have been a better option. I felt obliged to have a sip and was glad I had ordered a beer. An acquired taste.
On our way back to the hotel we booked a table for Gastronome Brīvības 31, Riga Phone: +371 67772356 Working hours: Mon-Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 0:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Gastronome is part of the Reval Hotel and has a good reputation for seafood. At the back of the restaurant is a lovely delicatessen selling interesting items including caviar vodka. Surprisingly, the restaurant was not very busy for a Friday night. Despite some items on the menu not being available the food was excellent. I tried a local Latvian fish with fresh vegetables and Stuart had a seafood assortment. Gastronome was a short walk to our hotel so we headed back in that direction for drinks in Caramel Rouge and more indoor cigarettes. The bar was busy on a Friday night and seems to be a popular meeting spot. We finished as usual with a drink in our hotel after a quick change of footwear so I could give my newly acquired McQueens an outing which involved tottering in and out of the lift.
Saturday 20th June
Out last day in Riga. As our flight was in the evening we packed our bags and checked out, leaving our luggage in the hotel. We went for coffee in the Old Town where Stuart decided to start his day with a chocolate mousse, why not? We retraced our steps back to Velvet for lunch and more fabulous pizza. Sitting outside on the thankfully covered terrace a heavy rain shower started. There was nothing else for it but to sit it out wrapped in a blanket. From there we strolled around some of the old town streets we had not yet seen and on towards the water passed Riga Castle. Walking over one of the bridges we spotted some steps which took us down to the waterside and walked along to the port where the ferries depart across the Baltic to Sweden. From here the waterway which runs through Kronvald Park starts and we followed the water from the port into the park. Kronvald Park really is a tranquil oasis in the city and is beautifully maintained. It contains quirky touches such as the bridge with love padlocks on the railings where couples fix their padlocks many with their names on and throw away the key. We left the park near the Opera House and headed to the Riga Hotel an old hotel on the edge of the old town for a cold beverage. The hotel had an air of slightly faded glory but also old school glamour.
We walked for the final time back to the hotel in time to catch happy hour and enjoy a farewell cocktail or two. I was sad to leave the Albert Hotel which was an ideal base for a city break, comfortable, clean, convenient and reasonably priced with some of the best Caipirinhas I‟d ever had and sad to say goodbye to Riga which at just over a two hour flight away makes for an interesting city break with something for everyone.
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