Havana
Order a Mojito, light a Cohiba and sit back and watch the people of Havana go about their daily lives. A unique City full of contradictions with beautifully restored colonial buildings standing next to crumbling edifices. The city has a manic energy, which will tire you out but is strangely beguiling. It really is like no-where we’ve ever seen before like an old film set with 1960’s American cars, some lovingly restored, huge squares with revolutionary icons and more green space than we’d imagined. Go now before it changes beyond recognition and see for yourself.
Havana Diary Blog 2012
Day 1 – Arrival
Hola Habana. Great flight out, listened to the advice of a seasoned traveller on the plane and ran off the plane as quickly as possible as heard that we could be stuck at immigration for some time, the man was not wrong! Organised chaos is an apt description. Made our way to the transfer bus. A man kindly took our suitcase and then promptly asked for some money, £10 to wheel the suitcase about 10 metres! After a long wait for those stuck in the immigration queue it’s a short journey to the hotel and our first chance to see Havana. Checked in at the Hotel Saratoga and are upgraded, so far so good. Our room is fab with a colonial feel to it. There is small balcony overlooking the Capitol building and the hustle and bustle below. Shower and change and off to the Mezzanine Bar for our first of many Mojitos to be consumed. Take the lift to the rooftop for a spectacular view across the city and a lovely view of the rooftop pool. Have dinner there and then early night. V tired!
Day 2 – First full day
Woke up early and decide to go to breakfast. Most of our fellow guests appear to be American. Enjoyed the strong Cuban coffee. Decide to seize the day and take a stroll towards the Malecon to get our bearings. Waylaid by locals who want to chat. Offered a tour by a local who takes us to see a grittier side of Havana which those on the guided tours probably don’t see. These streets are a far cry from those we later see in Old Habana. Streets with huge potholes where you mind your step, houses too small for the number of residents and shops where people go to get their rations. Basics are provided but there are many things that are hard to come by. Have a non-alcoholic Mojito in a proper locals bar in a courtyard and our first cigar. By this time it’s obvious the man is looking for some tourist cash. It’s all harmless but we learn that people in the city are on the look-out to make extra cash which is no great surprise. Having left our guide we stop for a juice at Parrilsda down near the water. Take a stroll along the Malecon towards the old time. The sky starts to look ominous so we take cover in the Museum of the Revolution, an old government headquarters now home to propaganda of all things Castro. The building is open in places with rain coming in. There is an amazing room called the Hall of Mirrors which is vast and ornate. We take the wrong exit and miss seeing the Granma, the yacht which took Fidel and other Revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba. We missed the boat! Not deterred, we talk to some more locals. We go to their neighbourhood bar which is football themed. The bar is cool and we chat, buy a couple of rounds of Mojitos, have our hair braided (well, one of us!) but sense the question of cash will arise. We pay for drink, accept their gift of a cigar and give them some tourist pesos. From now on we say no to people. Happy to tip well but you can’t give to everyone. On the flip side no-one seems to be homeless but there is a frustration that they can’t always get what they need.
We approach the heart of the old town for the first time and it is busy with tour parties. Most of the buildings have been lovingly restored and are truly stunning. We stroll along and end up in our first tourist trap, El Foridita, famous for its Ernest Hemmingway association. We order Daiquiris Floridita and listen to the band play Salsa. Back to the hotel to change where we find a letter addressed to Senor Kiles welcoming us and offering us a free dinner at the hotel to celebrate our honeymoon. News to us! Head out for dinner in the Old Town. We find a square overlooking the cathedral and have dinner on the balcony of El Patio. It’s a beautiful setting and the food is good. Head back home and stumble upon a bar called Allegra. It’s more modern than most and we order our first Cristal beer. We experience the first of the power cuts. The staff just continue serving with torches. The reality of life in Havana. Eventful day!
Day 3
Early breakfast again, what has got into us? Head out and have coffee in Café de Paris, the coffee here is v. good. Meander through the quaint streets passed the many museums and shops to Plaza de San Francisco one of 4 beautiful squares in old Habana. It’s a great area to stroll around though the pattern of the week has started to take shape with the numerous offers for taxis, some of which are the bicycle taxis which at night with no lights and the crazy drivers look particularly precarious and the frequent offers of a good price for cigars.
Go to El Templete for lunch, the first of the recommendations we noted down after watching Anthony Bourdain’s visit to Havana on “No Reservations.” El Templete is down by the not so scenic port. We take a table outside and the food as per the programme is really good. I have tuna in sesame seeds and Stuart has beef and lamb skewers. We decide there and then to come back for dinner. It does strike me that this restaurant like many others is mainly for tourists as very few locals could afford to eat here which is sad.
After lunch we head to Plaza de Viejo perhaps the most beautiful square so much so that it almost looks fake in places, like the façade of a film set. We go to the cathedral we had seen the night before which is large and ornate and from there wander towards the famous Bodeguita del Medio where there is no hope of getting a Mojito with the crowds there. Instead we go to the bar in the Ambos Mundes hotel where Hemmingway once stayed in Room 511 and wrote For Whom the Bell Tolls. Stuart buys his first Cohiba and we have Mojitos. Sitting close to the facilities I can see they are guarded by a scary looking lady who frequently barks at people on approach. I work out that I will need to tip when I go. I’m not quite prepared for the square of toilet paper I’m given or having to put it in the bin not the toilet. As I sit down disinfectant is squirted under the cubicle. I don’t take it personally as Stuart confirms the men’s facilities are similarly disinfected while in use! Drainage systems not good in Havana so all makes sense just need to put our Western sensibilities to one side. We walk back passed the local market selling souvenirs which is always busy and go to the rival Parque Central for a beer. It’s a big sprawling hotel again with great views over the city but much prefer the Saratoga, smaller and more exclusive I like to think! Tiredness has caught up with us and we order room service and retire.
Day 4
Book tickets in the hotel for the Partegas Cigar factory which we thought was a couple of minutes’ walk away as we can see it from the hotel. The old building has become unsafe for the workers and has moved across town so we go out for coffee and take a taxi to the newly housed factory. The taxi driver bobs along to the sounds of Madonna and Justin Timberlake, a favourite in Habana! The tour of the factory is amazing, a definite must. The aromas are intense as we move from room to room to see each stage of the process. The work requires skill and accuracy and is labour intensive. Our guide wearing his Chelsea football top is very knowledgeable and speaks amazing English. He has a very good sense of humour as he tells us that workers have left as now there are security cameras everywhere though he happens to know that a lot of them are not working! The shop is still in the old building and we walk back to make some purchases. Stuart settles on some Cohibas and Monte Cristos, they are expensive but not compared to home.
Take another taxi to the Hotel National which is iconic for its passed associations with old Hollywood Stars, Mob gangsters and general decadence. In the foyer and dotted about are pictures of famous guests. We have a light lunch outside but it’s a bit blustery today waves coming over the walls onto the Malecon.
Back to the hotel for an obligatory Mojito, they are so good, then onto Puerto de Sagua, another recommendation from Mr Bourdain. The bar with its distinctive port hole windows and fish tank inside is on the edge of the Old Town and we are the only tourists but the locals inside are friendly. Everyone seems curious to know what the weather is like in Scotland! From there we have a beer at La casa del Escabecha in the old town which looks like it should be a beach bar and do some people watching. We have dinner in Europa a no frills establishment but the food though basic is good and the musicians are relentless. It’s never quiet for long in Habana, the most peaceful place is the lift in the hotel when the doors close! Finish the night with an al fresco beverage in a café in Plaza de Vieja which has its own micro-brewery!
Day 5
Start the day with a coffee in the Mezzanine bar and then take a taxi to the Plaza de la Revolution which we had seen on our way from the airport. It houses government buildings two of which have iconic images of Fidel and Che. Our taxi driver seems perplexed when we advise we do not need to be collected but we are confident in our navigational skills! We take pictures of the square and then take the steps to the Jose Marti Memorial. Inside is a museum and a tower which provides views of the city from the top. We take the lift and admire the 360 degree views of the city.
We decide to walk from here to Lennon Park housing a statue of John Lennon. Fidel had once condemned the Beatles but changed his mind on hearing Lennon’s later work. After a few false starts we get our bearings. Not sure why but never imagined that Habana would have so many parks and green space. This part of town known as Vieja is definitely leafier with bigger houses and wide boulevards. Lennon Park is not quite what we expect. Apart from being quite small we had been told that a security guard is usually stationed there keeping a pair of glasses in his pocket for photo ops to stop people from stealing the glasses from the statue. Unfortunately he was no-where to be seen and Stuart had to have his photo taken regardless. Not the most accurate statue, a bit more Liam Gallagher than Lennon!
From there we saw the Hotel Melia Cohiba and took refuge in the air conditioning from the sun which was stronger today for a light snack and juice. The hotel is very nice with expensive shops and walls lined with pictures by local artists. There are so many shops selling artwork in Habana a lot of which is stunning. If only it was not so difficult to take home on a plane I would love to buy one of the colourful canvases. We have a drink at the rooftop bar as it seems only right and Stuart seems to enjoy the view by the pool!
Back to the hotel to change and out for dinner at El Templete, our return visit. This time we opt for a table inside and the food is once again fabulous. Fish for both of us this time. The clientele is very interesting tonight. There are lots of men of a certain age with ladies who are much younger and look like they have not known each other for long! Stuart enjoys their uniform of heels regardless! We decide to pay by credit card as we think this is the establishment most likely to take cards but the waitress asks if we can pay by cash or she will have to run to a nearby hotel to process the payment! As the ladies totter out for the night we head back to the hotel.
Day 6
Long sleep, getting up later and later. Decide to have coffee and tapas in the mezzanine to set us up for the day. Take a taxi to the Museo del Ron where we go on a tour of the Havana Club museum. The museum is in a beautiful building down by the port. It explains the origins of rum making and its development over the years and distilling process. The tour guide is very informative and at the end of the tour we are taken to a bar which has been re-created in the old 1930’s style and given a taste of a 7 year old rum which is very strong. The younger white rums are used mainly for cocktails while the older rums are darker and drunk more like whiskey or brandy. There is an obligatory shop and a bar in the courtyard selling a slightly lethal rum and juice concoction. From there we head next door for a drink at Los Hermanos where the bar man seems to know everyone. It is a lively place with a mix of locals and tourists where the Mojito glasses are stacked and ready to go.
After buying postcards and stamps in Plaza de San Francisco we stopped at the open air book market pondering the volumes of works by Fidel, We then took a bit of a bar crawl starting at Café O’Reilly. We decided to take the spiral staircase to an outdoor seat perched on one of the old balconies and only when halfway up we realised that this was a Celtic supporting bar much to Stuart’s delight with shirts and flags on the back wall. Overlooking a sheltered side street we watched the world go by. A cool little bar regardless of its theme! At this stage the names of our next 2 bars escape me, probably for good reason. Both were situated on the main street in and out of the old town the first being indoors in a traditional type building which was frequented more by locals despite its location. The second bar was outdoors and despite the erratic service we had come to know and love in Habana had a great lively atmosphere with musicians playing.
This was the night of our honeymoon meal in the hotel restaurant and we dressed for the occasion. Slightly perturbed when our hostess who greeted us shouted honeymoon as we walked to our table. Thankfully the restaurant was not busy. I’ve heard of attentive service but at times it was like all members of staff were standing to watch us eat! Nevertheless, the food was good and seems wrong to be picky as it wasn’t really our honeymoon! We rounded off the evening with a few drinks in the bar. A slightly boozy day!
Day 7
Longest sleep so far. Took a taxi to the last of our Bourdain suggestions, El Aljibe in the Miramar district. The restaurant has been open on and off for years and is famous for its chicken in a secret sauce. The restaurant is huge with high wooden ceilings and a thatched roof and coachloads of people descend for lunch. We ordered the famous chicken, what else which arrived with salad, chips and plantain. It is very good and well worth a visit. Miramar is even leafier than Vieja and is embassy country with large colonial style houses. The sun is outrageously intense today and we struggle in the heat to find the museum housing the scale model of Habana containing every building in Habana. In our confusion we seek shelter in a neighbourhood bar/café for juice. The bar has a covered seating area, seats upstairs and pool tables. The museum is a few doors down and suitably refreshed we go in to see the model which has been painstakingly re-created over 20 years. The staff seem grateful that people have come out to see their work as Mirimar is a bit of a distance from Old Habana. There is a viewing gallery to look down at the model and some amazing photographs on the walls. Definitely worth a visit. We flagged a taxi an old dilapidated Hugo to take us to a hotel to get our bearings. The Occidental Hotel is large and sprawling and while it seems very nice we are so glad we have not been tucked away in a hotel away from the heart of things. From here we walk towards the huge concrete eyesore of the Russian embassy which dominates the skyline and walk down to the water. So far we had taken a number of taxis from our hotel but had not taken one of the old American style cars which are everywhere in Habana, some falling apart some beautifully restored. Our carriage of choice is a soft top Pink Cadillac. I have now truly lived after sitting with the wind blowing through my hair watching the waves crash onto the Malecon as we weaved in and out of traffic without an indicator or seatbelts, at speed, listening to the sounds of Senor Lionel Richie, Say You, Say me while our taxi driver took his eyes of the road to offer us a camel cigarette, Hollywoods being our nicotine of choice on this trip. It was quite an experience no matter how cheesy.
After a shower we headed out for the evening. This evening is particularly bonkers even for Habana standards. We are now used to running the gauntlet when we leave our hotel as within a few footsteps we are offered taxis, cheap cigars, Charlie……pretty much every 30 seconds but tonight it seems more insistent. We return to El Floridita. This time the bar was quieter so we sat by the bronze statue of Hemmingway and had our pictures taken. More Daiquiris were consumed as we listened to the band and watched the enthusiastic salsa dancers. Dinner in La Mina in Old Habana is a simple meal of fish and salad and a nice spot for a cool breeze and to watch people pass by. We look for a place for a night cap and after leaving the old town decide to take a street we have not been down before but think better of it. We take an outdoor table near the Opera House and watch the madness. It’s exhausting just watching it!
Day 8 – Last full day
Probably should have had a day of relaxation much earlier in the trip! Go for a swim in the pool and it’s another hot one. Not quite infinity but still amazing to look out over the city. Out of the pool reapply the suntan cream and think we are suitably sheltered. Keep dipping in and out to cool down and then order some brunch. This is the life.
Ask the hotel to post our postcards and then take our final walk to Old Habana, feeling a bit out of sorts. Buy some souvenirs from the market we have passed by so many times. Some nice silver jewellery, ashtray, Habana street sign and a hand painted t shirt. Finally buy some books from the outdoor book stall in the square and then plonk ourselves down for juice in Hotel Santa Isobel for juice and to read the musings of Fidel! Still feeling a bit odd.
Back to the hotel. We are officially burnt and not in an all over tan kind of way! Dinner reservations for La Guardia which has been recommended to us. Starting to feel worse even after shower and reluctantly decide not to risk it with a 9 hour flight to make tomorrow. Order room service and drink a gallon of water. Pack some of clothes and v early night. Cannot sleep, stomach performing seismic somersaults, not boding well. This is going to be a long night.
Day 9 – Final day
Lucky if have had a couple of hours sleep. Now on a combination of tablets which I had brought with me in the event of any stomach upset and they seem to be helping slightly. Stuart speaks to the hotel who say it is ok to check out late, to be honest they would have to drag me out of bed. Stomach cramps are horrendous, getting on a plane seems inconceivable. Keep drinking water and taking tablets and sleep some more while Stuart phones the insurance and the airline. Decide I am getting on the plane and have a shower and finish packing. Go to Mezzanine and attempt some food. Have a semi lie down! Wonder why the transfer has not arrived. We are told it is an hour earlier then we think it is. Now we can’t work out whether we have had the wrong time all week but don’t see how this possible. More confused than ever!
Bye to the Hotel Saratoga which has been a fabulous place to stay. Would definitely recommend it. Stomach holding up so far. Arrive at the airport to run the gauntlet of immigration again. Buy a small canvas with a picture of La Bodeguita Del Medio. It has been mental but amazing. Hasta La Vista Habana.
In the air
Just to sum the city up, the air steward we chatted to on the plane told us that we were not the only people confused by the lost hour. The clocks were due to go forward in Habana that day and our phones had automatically updated but at the last minute it was decided not to put the clocks forward this year. Expect the unexpected and go with it!
Day 1 – Arrival
Hola Habana. Great flight out, listened to the advice of a seasoned traveller on the plane and ran off the plane as quickly as possible as heard that we could be stuck at immigration for some time, the man was not wrong! Organised chaos is an apt description. Made our way to the transfer bus. A man kindly took our suitcase and then promptly asked for some money, £10 to wheel the suitcase about 10 metres! After a long wait for those stuck in the immigration queue it’s a short journey to the hotel and our first chance to see Havana. Checked in at the Hotel Saratoga and are upgraded, so far so good. Our room is fab with a colonial feel to it. There is small balcony overlooking the Capitol building and the hustle and bustle below. Shower and change and off to the Mezzanine Bar for our first of many Mojitos to be consumed. Take the lift to the rooftop for a spectacular view across the city and a lovely view of the rooftop pool. Have dinner there and then early night. V tired!
Day 2 – First full day
Woke up early and decide to go to breakfast. Most of our fellow guests appear to be American. Enjoyed the strong Cuban coffee. Decide to seize the day and take a stroll towards the Malecon to get our bearings. Waylaid by locals who want to chat. Offered a tour by a local who takes us to see a grittier side of Havana which those on the guided tours probably don’t see. These streets are a far cry from those we later see in Old Habana. Streets with huge potholes where you mind your step, houses too small for the number of residents and shops where people go to get their rations. Basics are provided but there are many things that are hard to come by. Have a non-alcoholic Mojito in a proper locals bar in a courtyard and our first cigar. By this time it’s obvious the man is looking for some tourist cash. It’s all harmless but we learn that people in the city are on the look-out to make extra cash which is no great surprise. Having left our guide we stop for a juice at Parrilsda down near the water. Take a stroll along the Malecon towards the old time. The sky starts to look ominous so we take cover in the Museum of the Revolution, an old government headquarters now home to propaganda of all things Castro. The building is open in places with rain coming in. There is an amazing room called the Hall of Mirrors which is vast and ornate. We take the wrong exit and miss seeing the Granma, the yacht which took Fidel and other Revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba. We missed the boat! Not deterred, we talk to some more locals. We go to their neighbourhood bar which is football themed. The bar is cool and we chat, buy a couple of rounds of Mojitos, have our hair braided (well, one of us!) but sense the question of cash will arise. We pay for drink, accept their gift of a cigar and give them some tourist pesos. From now on we say no to people. Happy to tip well but you can’t give to everyone. On the flip side no-one seems to be homeless but there is a frustration that they can’t always get what they need.
We approach the heart of the old town for the first time and it is busy with tour parties. Most of the buildings have been lovingly restored and are truly stunning. We stroll along and end up in our first tourist trap, El Foridita, famous for its Ernest Hemmingway association. We order Daiquiris Floridita and listen to the band play Salsa. Back to the hotel to change where we find a letter addressed to Senor Kiles welcoming us and offering us a free dinner at the hotel to celebrate our honeymoon. News to us! Head out for dinner in the Old Town. We find a square overlooking the cathedral and have dinner on the balcony of El Patio. It’s a beautiful setting and the food is good. Head back home and stumble upon a bar called Allegra. It’s more modern than most and we order our first Cristal beer. We experience the first of the power cuts. The staff just continue serving with torches. The reality of life in Havana. Eventful day!
Day 3
Early breakfast again, what has got into us? Head out and have coffee in Café de Paris, the coffee here is v. good. Meander through the quaint streets passed the many museums and shops to Plaza de San Francisco one of 4 beautiful squares in old Habana. It’s a great area to stroll around though the pattern of the week has started to take shape with the numerous offers for taxis, some of which are the bicycle taxis which at night with no lights and the crazy drivers look particularly precarious and the frequent offers of a good price for cigars.
Go to El Templete for lunch, the first of the recommendations we noted down after watching Anthony Bourdain’s visit to Havana on “No Reservations.” El Templete is down by the not so scenic port. We take a table outside and the food as per the programme is really good. I have tuna in sesame seeds and Stuart has beef and lamb skewers. We decide there and then to come back for dinner. It does strike me that this restaurant like many others is mainly for tourists as very few locals could afford to eat here which is sad.
After lunch we head to Plaza de Viejo perhaps the most beautiful square so much so that it almost looks fake in places, like the façade of a film set. We go to the cathedral we had seen the night before which is large and ornate and from there wander towards the famous Bodeguita del Medio where there is no hope of getting a Mojito with the crowds there. Instead we go to the bar in the Ambos Mundes hotel where Hemmingway once stayed in Room 511 and wrote For Whom the Bell Tolls. Stuart buys his first Cohiba and we have Mojitos. Sitting close to the facilities I can see they are guarded by a scary looking lady who frequently barks at people on approach. I work out that I will need to tip when I go. I’m not quite prepared for the square of toilet paper I’m given or having to put it in the bin not the toilet. As I sit down disinfectant is squirted under the cubicle. I don’t take it personally as Stuart confirms the men’s facilities are similarly disinfected while in use! Drainage systems not good in Havana so all makes sense just need to put our Western sensibilities to one side. We walk back passed the local market selling souvenirs which is always busy and go to the rival Parque Central for a beer. It’s a big sprawling hotel again with great views over the city but much prefer the Saratoga, smaller and more exclusive I like to think! Tiredness has caught up with us and we order room service and retire.
Day 4
Book tickets in the hotel for the Partegas Cigar factory which we thought was a couple of minutes’ walk away as we can see it from the hotel. The old building has become unsafe for the workers and has moved across town so we go out for coffee and take a taxi to the newly housed factory. The taxi driver bobs along to the sounds of Madonna and Justin Timberlake, a favourite in Habana! The tour of the factory is amazing, a definite must. The aromas are intense as we move from room to room to see each stage of the process. The work requires skill and accuracy and is labour intensive. Our guide wearing his Chelsea football top is very knowledgeable and speaks amazing English. He has a very good sense of humour as he tells us that workers have left as now there are security cameras everywhere though he happens to know that a lot of them are not working! The shop is still in the old building and we walk back to make some purchases. Stuart settles on some Cohibas and Monte Cristos, they are expensive but not compared to home.
Take another taxi to the Hotel National which is iconic for its passed associations with old Hollywood Stars, Mob gangsters and general decadence. In the foyer and dotted about are pictures of famous guests. We have a light lunch outside but it’s a bit blustery today waves coming over the walls onto the Malecon.
Back to the hotel for an obligatory Mojito, they are so good, then onto Puerto de Sagua, another recommendation from Mr Bourdain. The bar with its distinctive port hole windows and fish tank inside is on the edge of the Old Town and we are the only tourists but the locals inside are friendly. Everyone seems curious to know what the weather is like in Scotland! From there we have a beer at La casa del Escabecha in the old town which looks like it should be a beach bar and do some people watching. We have dinner in Europa a no frills establishment but the food though basic is good and the musicians are relentless. It’s never quiet for long in Habana, the most peaceful place is the lift in the hotel when the doors close! Finish the night with an al fresco beverage in a café in Plaza de Vieja which has its own micro-brewery!
Day 5
Start the day with a coffee in the Mezzanine bar and then take a taxi to the Plaza de la Revolution which we had seen on our way from the airport. It houses government buildings two of which have iconic images of Fidel and Che. Our taxi driver seems perplexed when we advise we do not need to be collected but we are confident in our navigational skills! We take pictures of the square and then take the steps to the Jose Marti Memorial. Inside is a museum and a tower which provides views of the city from the top. We take the lift and admire the 360 degree views of the city.
We decide to walk from here to Lennon Park housing a statue of John Lennon. Fidel had once condemned the Beatles but changed his mind on hearing Lennon’s later work. After a few false starts we get our bearings. Not sure why but never imagined that Habana would have so many parks and green space. This part of town known as Vieja is definitely leafier with bigger houses and wide boulevards. Lennon Park is not quite what we expect. Apart from being quite small we had been told that a security guard is usually stationed there keeping a pair of glasses in his pocket for photo ops to stop people from stealing the glasses from the statue. Unfortunately he was no-where to be seen and Stuart had to have his photo taken regardless. Not the most accurate statue, a bit more Liam Gallagher than Lennon!
From there we saw the Hotel Melia Cohiba and took refuge in the air conditioning from the sun which was stronger today for a light snack and juice. The hotel is very nice with expensive shops and walls lined with pictures by local artists. There are so many shops selling artwork in Habana a lot of which is stunning. If only it was not so difficult to take home on a plane I would love to buy one of the colourful canvases. We have a drink at the rooftop bar as it seems only right and Stuart seems to enjoy the view by the pool!
Back to the hotel to change and out for dinner at El Templete, our return visit. This time we opt for a table inside and the food is once again fabulous. Fish for both of us this time. The clientele is very interesting tonight. There are lots of men of a certain age with ladies who are much younger and look like they have not known each other for long! Stuart enjoys their uniform of heels regardless! We decide to pay by credit card as we think this is the establishment most likely to take cards but the waitress asks if we can pay by cash or she will have to run to a nearby hotel to process the payment! As the ladies totter out for the night we head back to the hotel.
Day 6
Long sleep, getting up later and later. Decide to have coffee and tapas in the mezzanine to set us up for the day. Take a taxi to the Museo del Ron where we go on a tour of the Havana Club museum. The museum is in a beautiful building down by the port. It explains the origins of rum making and its development over the years and distilling process. The tour guide is very informative and at the end of the tour we are taken to a bar which has been re-created in the old 1930’s style and given a taste of a 7 year old rum which is very strong. The younger white rums are used mainly for cocktails while the older rums are darker and drunk more like whiskey or brandy. There is an obligatory shop and a bar in the courtyard selling a slightly lethal rum and juice concoction. From there we head next door for a drink at Los Hermanos where the bar man seems to know everyone. It is a lively place with a mix of locals and tourists where the Mojito glasses are stacked and ready to go.
After buying postcards and stamps in Plaza de San Francisco we stopped at the open air book market pondering the volumes of works by Fidel, We then took a bit of a bar crawl starting at Café O’Reilly. We decided to take the spiral staircase to an outdoor seat perched on one of the old balconies and only when halfway up we realised that this was a Celtic supporting bar much to Stuart’s delight with shirts and flags on the back wall. Overlooking a sheltered side street we watched the world go by. A cool little bar regardless of its theme! At this stage the names of our next 2 bars escape me, probably for good reason. Both were situated on the main street in and out of the old town the first being indoors in a traditional type building which was frequented more by locals despite its location. The second bar was outdoors and despite the erratic service we had come to know and love in Habana had a great lively atmosphere with musicians playing.
This was the night of our honeymoon meal in the hotel restaurant and we dressed for the occasion. Slightly perturbed when our hostess who greeted us shouted honeymoon as we walked to our table. Thankfully the restaurant was not busy. I’ve heard of attentive service but at times it was like all members of staff were standing to watch us eat! Nevertheless, the food was good and seems wrong to be picky as it wasn’t really our honeymoon! We rounded off the evening with a few drinks in the bar. A slightly boozy day!
Day 7
Longest sleep so far. Took a taxi to the last of our Bourdain suggestions, El Aljibe in the Miramar district. The restaurant has been open on and off for years and is famous for its chicken in a secret sauce. The restaurant is huge with high wooden ceilings and a thatched roof and coachloads of people descend for lunch. We ordered the famous chicken, what else which arrived with salad, chips and plantain. It is very good and well worth a visit. Miramar is even leafier than Vieja and is embassy country with large colonial style houses. The sun is outrageously intense today and we struggle in the heat to find the museum housing the scale model of Habana containing every building in Habana. In our confusion we seek shelter in a neighbourhood bar/café for juice. The bar has a covered seating area, seats upstairs and pool tables. The museum is a few doors down and suitably refreshed we go in to see the model which has been painstakingly re-created over 20 years. The staff seem grateful that people have come out to see their work as Mirimar is a bit of a distance from Old Habana. There is a viewing gallery to look down at the model and some amazing photographs on the walls. Definitely worth a visit. We flagged a taxi an old dilapidated Hugo to take us to a hotel to get our bearings. The Occidental Hotel is large and sprawling and while it seems very nice we are so glad we have not been tucked away in a hotel away from the heart of things. From here we walk towards the huge concrete eyesore of the Russian embassy which dominates the skyline and walk down to the water. So far we had taken a number of taxis from our hotel but had not taken one of the old American style cars which are everywhere in Habana, some falling apart some beautifully restored. Our carriage of choice is a soft top Pink Cadillac. I have now truly lived after sitting with the wind blowing through my hair watching the waves crash onto the Malecon as we weaved in and out of traffic without an indicator or seatbelts, at speed, listening to the sounds of Senor Lionel Richie, Say You, Say me while our taxi driver took his eyes of the road to offer us a camel cigarette, Hollywoods being our nicotine of choice on this trip. It was quite an experience no matter how cheesy.
After a shower we headed out for the evening. This evening is particularly bonkers even for Habana standards. We are now used to running the gauntlet when we leave our hotel as within a few footsteps we are offered taxis, cheap cigars, Charlie……pretty much every 30 seconds but tonight it seems more insistent. We return to El Floridita. This time the bar was quieter so we sat by the bronze statue of Hemmingway and had our pictures taken. More Daiquiris were consumed as we listened to the band and watched the enthusiastic salsa dancers. Dinner in La Mina in Old Habana is a simple meal of fish and salad and a nice spot for a cool breeze and to watch people pass by. We look for a place for a night cap and after leaving the old town decide to take a street we have not been down before but think better of it. We take an outdoor table near the Opera House and watch the madness. It’s exhausting just watching it!
Day 8 – Last full day
Probably should have had a day of relaxation much earlier in the trip! Go for a swim in the pool and it’s another hot one. Not quite infinity but still amazing to look out over the city. Out of the pool reapply the suntan cream and think we are suitably sheltered. Keep dipping in and out to cool down and then order some brunch. This is the life.
Ask the hotel to post our postcards and then take our final walk to Old Habana, feeling a bit out of sorts. Buy some souvenirs from the market we have passed by so many times. Some nice silver jewellery, ashtray, Habana street sign and a hand painted t shirt. Finally buy some books from the outdoor book stall in the square and then plonk ourselves down for juice in Hotel Santa Isobel for juice and to read the musings of Fidel! Still feeling a bit odd.
Back to the hotel. We are officially burnt and not in an all over tan kind of way! Dinner reservations for La Guardia which has been recommended to us. Starting to feel worse even after shower and reluctantly decide not to risk it with a 9 hour flight to make tomorrow. Order room service and drink a gallon of water. Pack some of clothes and v early night. Cannot sleep, stomach performing seismic somersaults, not boding well. This is going to be a long night.
Day 9 – Final day
Lucky if have had a couple of hours sleep. Now on a combination of tablets which I had brought with me in the event of any stomach upset and they seem to be helping slightly. Stuart speaks to the hotel who say it is ok to check out late, to be honest they would have to drag me out of bed. Stomach cramps are horrendous, getting on a plane seems inconceivable. Keep drinking water and taking tablets and sleep some more while Stuart phones the insurance and the airline. Decide I am getting on the plane and have a shower and finish packing. Go to Mezzanine and attempt some food. Have a semi lie down! Wonder why the transfer has not arrived. We are told it is an hour earlier then we think it is. Now we can’t work out whether we have had the wrong time all week but don’t see how this possible. More confused than ever!
Bye to the Hotel Saratoga which has been a fabulous place to stay. Would definitely recommend it. Stomach holding up so far. Arrive at the airport to run the gauntlet of immigration again. Buy a small canvas with a picture of La Bodeguita Del Medio. It has been mental but amazing. Hasta La Vista Habana.
In the air
Just to sum the city up, the air steward we chatted to on the plane told us that we were not the only people confused by the lost hour. The clocks were due to go forward in Habana that day and our phones had automatically updated but at the last minute it was decided not to put the clocks forward this year. Expect the unexpected and go with it!
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